Enlarge
中文
Enlarge
Since 2011
For a photographer, Mt. Bromo is unusually generous. Within a small area there are volcanic ridges, ash plains, Tengger villages, horses, dawn crowds and, on clear nights, the Milky Way. There is no sea in the usual sense, but the clouds often gather below the ridges until the whole landscape seems to float.
I have been visiting Bromo since 2011, usually at least once a year. The mountain never feels quite the same twice. This is the story of one visit that began with news of an eruption.
The eruption took place on 20 July 2016. When I heard about it, I knew immediately that I wanted to go. The thought of photographing an active volcano took hold at once. Excitement came first, then the more practical question: what would happen if the situation became dangerous while I was there?
Images of smoke, lava, ash and people fleeing came to mind. Still, the pull was too strong. I did not want to miss the chance again. Photographing an erupting volcano is not exactly a sensible idea, and I knew non-photographers might find it hard to understand, but I had made up my mind.
I contacted a local friend, arranged lodging and transport, and booked the earliest flight I could.
Bromo takes its name from Brahma, the Hindu god of creation. The volcano stands about 2,329 metres above sea level and has erupted many times since the eighteenth century. It remains active, and even so, visitors continue to come in large numbers.
My local friends told me the authorities had not closed the area and that daily life was continuing. That reassured me, though I was still nervous. After all, I was travelling towards an active eruption.
The flight to Surabaya took about two hours and forty minutes. From there, the road to Bromo was narrow, congested and full of holes. As we climbed higher, the air cooled and the landscape began to change. After more than three hours, we reached about two thousand metres. The temperature had dropped from the thirties to the teens.
The streets were busy with merchants selling hats, gloves and masks. Jeeps passed constantly. Tourists, photographers, drivers and local people moved in every direction. There was plenty of excitement, but no panic. People had come, as I had, to see the eruption.
Almost as soon as we arrived, Bromo gave us its first welcome. Smoke rose from the crater, followed by an eruption. Volcanic ash fell on my head, and instead of fear I felt a rush of excitement. I was finally there.
The hotel was near the volcano. From the window I could see Bromo smoking in the distance. Near dusk, when the light softened, my friend took me to the first shooting location and I began working immediately.
After watching for a while, I realised the eruptions had a rhythm, roughly every twenty to thirty minutes. They varied in strength. Sometimes there were flames, sometimes explosions, and the smoke kept changing shape. For someone photographing a volcano for the first time, it was almost too much to take in.
After the last light faded, I packed my equipment, still excited. My friend smiled and said, "Save some bullets. It will be more exciting in the morning."
Back at the hotel, I washed the ash from my face and set my alarm. Outside the window, the volcano continued to erupt while I lay in bed.
The next morning I woke before the alarm. Torchlights were already flashing outside the hotel. Photographers, tourists, drivers and merchants were gathering in the cold before dawn.
When I saw the crowd, I worried that the shooting spot would already be full. I grabbed my equipment, jumped into the jeep and left. To reach Penajakan II, I had to ride a horse up a short slope and then climb a zigzag staircase.
Somewhere in the rush, I lost the quick-release plate from my ball head. The tripod I had carried all the way had suddenly become useless, except as a walking stick. There was no time to worry about it. The sun was rising, and I did not want to miss the first light.
The observation deck was packed. Setting up a tripod would have been impossible even if mine had been usable. I retreated to the slope behind the deck. It was steep, but the angle looked better and there were fewer people. I climbed up as best I could.
Just as the sun crossed the horizon and the first light touched Bromo, an explosion came from the crater. The volcano erupted, and the crowd cheered.
It felt like watching fireworks, except the fireworks were coming from the earth itself.
Yellow smoke poured from the crater. As the light struck it, the scene became extraordinary. I metered quickly and made dozens of exposures. There was no time for perfection. I photographed first and left the refinements for later.
Soon I had to stop. Ash began falling like rain. I tucked the camera inside my jacket, lowered my head and closed my eyes. My jacket, hat and glasses were all covered.
When the ash eased, I continued shooting for a while, but the sun had risen and the light had become harsh. The smoke had also settled. It was time to return to the hotel for breakfast.
That morning felt as if it had given me two breakfasts: one from the hotel, and one from the eruption itself. The second one was the more memorable.
I climbed down slowly and rode the horse back. Looking at Bromo from a distance, with the cold wind against my face, I felt lucky. Everyone who came up that morning had seen the eruption for themselves. I was glad to have been among them.
Morning temperatures can fall to around 0 to 10 degrees Celsius. Winter clothing is useful before dawn. A sweatshirt and jacket are usually enough around midday, when temperatures may rise to about 15 to 25 degrees.
The weather is humid from November to March and rain is common from January to February. Conditions are usually more stable from May to August.
Rawon Nguling in Malang is known for its rich beef soup. Bakso, a simple beef-ball noodle soup, is easy to find and reasonably priced.
Hotels close to the volcano are the most convenient. Lava View and Cemara Indah are good options. Java Banana is more comfortable, but it is farther from Bromo and requires a 20 to 30 minute drive.
AirAsia flies to Surabaya Juanda International Airport. Taking the earliest flight makes it possible to reach Bromo after about three to four hours by car.
Jeeps are commonly used for sightseeing around Bromo. Horseback riding is also part of the experience in some areas.
Main locations include Mt. Bromo, Pura Luhur Poten Temple, Lautan Pasir and the Savannah. Penajakan I and II are popular sunrise viewpoints. Penajakan I is often crowded, so it is better to leave early. Metigen Hill near Lava View is a good place for sunset.